Airbnb options in Mexico City

One of the great things about being an Airbnb host is that you can rent out your place, go to another city and rent an amazing apartment that's completely different than your own. The options in Mexico City were plentiful, so much that it made my head spin.

I ended up renting three different places, and while they were all great, next time I think I'll stay in one spot longer. Since most have a check in time of around 3 or 4pm and a check out time around 11am (as they need time to turn it over, like a hotel), it makes for a complicated tango in the middle of the day with your luggage. Luckily, the hosts were accommodating and early/late check outs worked out, but I know what a hassle it can be for them and hated asking. And moving to a new place in the middle of the day ate up a lot of site-seeing time.

I wrote in a previous post about my first host - Tom, who was a super nice ex-pat from NY, and he immediately set me up with a map and suggestions of where to go. He really made me feel at home, which is something that's really invaluable when arriving into a foreign country you're not familiar with. The next night we hung out with some wine and commiserated on the ups and downs of being a host. Exchanging Airbnb horror stories is always fun. Above is a photo of his beautiful roof deck, which was a great place to hang out and read his guidebooks.

Next I stayed at a place that was like a glass tree house in the middle of the city (the patio shown on the top of this post, with me looking pensive). There was also a private rooftop patio with a BBQ, but I only used it to dry my laundry. I can BBQ at home.

There was a huge double jacuzzi tub off to the right, but since it was so large, the hot water would run out by the time it got to about two inches deep. So I would try to flatten out and splash water on myself, like a sad sea lion.

One thing I didn't expect was to be so cold in Mexico... January days were still pretty mild during the day, but it got chilly at night and apparently heating in homes is rare.  So one of the reasons I booked the 3rd place was for the old clawfoot tub (just like I have at home), and it was perfect to warm up in. And that TILE! I'm a sucker for concrete tile. This whole apartment was visually amazing.

Everything in this place was thoughtfully and beautifully designed. Love how this beautiful wood counter was also a bottle rack. And the drawer under the sink pulled out and drawers fit in around the plumbing - an excellent use of space (something I've done in the past when converting a vintage dresser into a bathroom counter).

The downside was the stairs to get up to this rooftop apartment, which was more like a ladder. Difficult with luggage, but the worse part was the many doors with tricky locks and different keys to get past. My keys kept getting stuck in the door, so I would have to hide my valuables and hope for the best. This unfortunately led me to forgetting my hidden cash and passport when I checked out, and a resulting 2 extra long Uber rides across town to retrieve them. Duh.

One more shot below of Tom's roof patio... these open metal walkways are popular around Mexico City. An excellent use of space again, but stresses my vertigo.

Diego Rivera murals in Mexico City

There's no shortage of Diego Rivera murals in CDMX, but the Secretariat of Public Education was my favorite. Covering all of the walls of these two courtyards are 235 panels of murals done between 1923 and 1928. This was Rivera’s first major large-scale mural project. The themes center around workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican, especially the Mexican Revolution. Rivera named the two courtyards “Labor Courtyard” and the other the “Fiesta Courtyard” based on the themes he painted in each.

Entrance is free, you just have to figure out where to go and get past some armed guards. I don't know the hours, but I went on a Monday afternoon, which was perfect since most all of the museums in Mexico City are closed on Mondays.

Murales de Diego Rivera en la Secretaria de Educacion Publica, Calle Republica de Argentina 28, Mexico City 06000, Mexico

Guess who? My last post was on the Frida Kahlo Casa Azul museum.

I snapped this quickly, because I didn't want anyone to see me taking photos of trash cans in the midst of all these beautiful paintings. But I really dug these cans. They're the same color as my car.

Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul

I've always wanted to visit Frida Kahlo's house, and it was even better than I expected. But the crowds were insane. Luckily my Airbnb host tipped me off that I should buy advance tickets online, and after searching I found that it's a separate website, where I was able to buy a ticket a few hours in advance to skip the line. And the line went all the way down the block.  boletosfridakahlo.org

There's a small gallery of her works, an interesting collection spanning her life. I was particularly moved by an early portrait she made in 1927, though I wasn't quite sure why. Something in the eyes. I looked up the subject, Agustin Olmedo, and only learned that he was a friend and a member of the group known as "Cachuchas".  I also found an interesting story behind the damaged part of the painting in the center of his jacket. The damage was inflicted by Kahlo herself when she learned that Agustin was badmouthing her by saying that "she isn't worth not even a cent". Classic.

I especially enjoyed seeing unfinished works, as a glimpse into her process.

There was also something so stirring about seeing her home, personal objects and work spaces. 

The house was amazing, especially the beautiful courtyard. It's a walled-off haven from the busy streets surrounding it, a private vibrant jungle inside the city. 

This still life was made for the dining room of the Mexican presidential residence,  but was later returned, perhaps because its fruits were too voluptuously graphic. The fruits are very sexually suggestive, as is the frame she had made for it. 

Much of her work and collections focused on her infertility, a subject I'm all too familiar with as well. Probably one of the many reasons I'm drawn to her work. I also paint self portraits (link here), have a blue house, questionable taste in men and unmanageable eyebrows. 

Diego Rivera summed up her universal appeal better than I can: "Frida is the sole example in art history of someone who has torn open her breast and her heart in order to tell the biological truth of what she feels inside them."

Despite her life-long health issues, Frida apparently got a lot of action. She began a 10 year affair with Nickolas Muray (the photographer who took the portrait above) just a year after her marriage to Diego Rivera. Supposedly she also had an affair with Georgia O'Keefe, as this letter she wrote to her in 1933 suggests. I thought it was a charming letter, full of genuine sincerity.

Georgia, 
Was wonderful to hear your voice again. Every day since I called you and many times before months ago I wanted to write you a letter. I wrote you many, but every one seemed more stupid and empty and I torn them up. I can't write in English all that I would like to tell, especially to you. I am sending this one because I promised it to you. I felt terrible when Sybil Brown told me that you were sick but I still don't know what is the matter with you. Please Georgia dear if you can't write, ask Stieglitz to do it for you and let me know how are you feeling will you ? I'll be in Detroit two more weeks. I would like to tell you every thing that happened to me since the last time we saw each other, but most of them are sad and you mustn't know sad things now. After all I shouldn't complain because I have been happy in many ways though. Diego is good to me, and you can't imagine how happy he has been working on the frescoes here. I have been painting a little too and that helped. I thought of you a lot and never forget your wonderful hands and the color of your eyes. I will see you soon. I am sure that in New York I will be much happier. If you still in the hospital when I come back I will bring you flowers, but it is so difficult to find the ones I would like for you. I would be so happy if you could write me even two words. I like you very much Georgia. 
Frieda

On the left is a pre-Columbian urn containing Frida's ashes. I read that Diego Rivera's last will and testament specified that his body was to be cremated and his ashes were to be mixed with those of Frida's and their ashes were to be kept in the Blue House in Coyoacán. However, Diego's two daughters and his wife at the time refused to respect his last wishes. 

I'm inspired by Frida's urn to make an urn for myself. That sounds creepy, but people buy their own grave plots, don't they? This photo is of an urn I made for my dog five years ago. RIP, Shaft.

Diego Rivera also stipulated in his will that sections of the Casa Azul remain closed off from the museum for 50 years past his death, and they were filled with their personal items. So about 10 years ago these items were finally uncovered. There's a temporary exhibit at the museum (though I think it's been up for years) of Frida's clothing, corsets, jewelry, shoes, photos, plus a selection of pieces by major fashion designers that were inspired by her style. One of her legs was shorter and thinner due to polio as a child, which is why she usually wore long skirts. It's speculated that it's also why she wore so much jewelry, colorful tops and elaborate hairstyles, to draw the eyes up and away from her legs. But I can't believe she was hiding these fabulous boots under long skirts! I'm really longing for a pair of boots like these.

Plaza Hildago

Coyoacan, where the Casa Azul is located, is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Mexico City. South of the museum, it's an easy walk to the lovely Plaza Hildago, which has many restaurant options. I went to Los Danzantes, which I highly recommend. I made a poor ordering choice though, getting a dish featuring chaupilines (AKA grasshoppers). They were listed as the last ingredient, so I wishfully thought that it would be just a sprinkling of them, and I could just give them a try. But there were at least 100 little crickets piled up on this tostada, and I could only stomach a small amount. Years ago I somehow ended up rescuing a beaded dragon (long story), and had to regularly buy crickets to feed it. I just kept thinking of the horrible smell of that cricket container, and it wasn't appetizing. I wish I could go back to that restaurant and have a do-over! The artwork inside was amazing as well.

Carvings and mosaics upstairs in Los Dazantes. Embryos were the theme of the day.

Mexico City - in search of tacos. Airbnb experience tour

Contramar lunch of sopes and shrimp soup

The deco architecture is amazing! 

I'm in Mexico City right now on a whim of a trip I booked two weeks ago. The reason for the trip was simple (if a little sad) - some repeat airbnb guests who love my dog (and vice versa) were having an extended stay at my studio in Joshua Tree, and were willing to watch him in exchange for reduced rent.  I would travel a lot more if I wasn't so attached to that damn dog. So I opened up Google flights and started searching destinations and Mexico City popped out. I've been all over the Yucatán and Baja, but never in central Mexico. I had heard horror stories about traveling in Mexico City years ago (even from Mexicans!), but lately I've been hearing what a fabulous place it is.

My first evening, relaxing on Airbnb host Tom's roof.

It's hectic and loud,  but also beautiful with an energy that's hard to describe. Luckily my first airbnb host, Tom, was a super nice ex-pat from NY, and he immediately set me up with a map and suggestions of where to go. He really made me feel at home, and the next night we hung out with some wine and commiserated on the ups and downs of being a host.

The second day I decided to try one of Airbnb's relatively new "experiences", and did a taco bike ride tour around the city. It's a great thing for someone traveling alone, but also for anyone wanting to find "insider gems" in a new city. The host, Diego, was a charmer and his tour was very well organized. We covered a lot of ground in three hours, making five stops to experience a variety of tacos.

Diego talking tacos

First we went to a small Mayan taco joint, where we had conchinita pibil tacos, with about 10 different great salsas. Plus vibrant green agua Frescas made from a leafy green plant that I've forgotten the name of. I also didn't catch the name of the place, unfortunately... someone else on the tour told me it was called Habinitos, but I wasn't able to find it online. It was a tiny little place, and I went to use the bathroom and had to go through a little half-sized door that reminded me of Being John Malkovich.

2nd stop was seafood at Tres Galeones, at Calle Jalapa 117, Roma Norte. It was so good that I went back the next day and got the same thing - a soft shell crab taco and shrimp sopes - both amazing.

Tortillas being made at the market for our carnitas  

3rd stop we rolled our bikes into a busy market all the way to the back for pork confit tacos. They showed us the big vat of oil the pigs are cooked in, and the guy demonstrated how he could cut right through the bone, "like it was guacamole". at least I think that's what he said. My Spanish really sucks. 

Diego answered some of my silly questions - like what they were chanting out of megaphones from circling trucks? I thought it was some sort of political thing, but turns out they're just announcing that they buy used microwaves, mattresses, refrigerators, etc. He also told us to look for men going around at night with two metal sticks, explaining that people pay them for an electric shock. He showed us a photo of him doing it with friends a few nights prior. They hold hands in a circle, the current passes through everyone, and the first person who lets go has to pay the shock man. Another woman on the tour asked if the shock wasn't dangerous for his pregnant wife, and he just laughed and said "Nah!"

Me sporting my growing butt, about to eat more tacos.

The last stop was for Asian fusion duck tacos with a sauce reminiscent of Peking duck. El Autintico Pato Manila, Calle Culliacan 91, Condesa. I thought about going back there as well, but needed to make time for the amazing Contramar that every person that had Mexico City tips had recommended. With good reason - it was excellant

I also discovered a great Oaxacan place called Pasillo de Humo, Avenida Nuevo Leon 107, Hipodromo, Mexico City 06100. I think it's only open for lunch. There was a crowded scene on the first level, with several different counters, but I ate at the more quiet upstairs. Mainly because a hostess asked me a question and gestured upstairs, so I said "Si" and that's where I ended up.

Duck tacos at El Autintico Pato Manila, Calle Culliacan 91, Condesa

We wrapped up the tour with a shot of mezcal, with an orange and worm salt on the side. This was the first of lots of mezcal during my trip. Apparently we were lucky to have Diego lead the tour, because his employee was on a paid vacation. He's only been giving these experience tours since August, and has an employee on vacation!!

I was going to try and go to Oaxaca and then meet up with a friend in Puerto Vallarta, but ended up deciding Oaxaca could wait. Too much to see and do in Mexico City. I know, I know, I'm missing out, but hopefully it won't go anywhere and I'll see it next time.

Spiderweb metal work. And that PINK!

Venice Biennale 2017 Part 2, the art

Claudia Fontes, The Horse problem

So so so much art... too many favorites to even post, but I'll try.

bread books by Italian artist Maria Lai

Liliana Porter - amazing work, check out her website: http://lilianaporter.com

All of a Tremble (Encounter I), 2017, by Anri Sala 

Lee Wan, "Mr. K and the Collection of Korean History", Korean Pavillion.

Anne Imhof, Faust. "i'm .... too sexy for this shirt..."

Tang Nannan, "What's at sea?", China Pavillion. More of his work: http://www.tangnannan.net

Venice Biennale 2017 part 1 , where I stayed

For years I dreamed of visiting the Biennale in Venice some day. I was lucky enough to go to Italy this year, and I decided to spend a week in Venice. That was a hard choice to make, since there's so much to see in Italy and only so much time. But there was so much art to see, and I thought it would be amazing to really get to know Venice. Of course, I only scratched the surface, but it was still amazing. I saw so much art... and my feet paid dearly. Oh, so much walking in Venice. I would end up soaking my feet in the bidet each evening, trying to build up the strength to go out to dinner. I stayed in three Airbnb rentals, giving me the chance to get to know different parts of the city. Although it would take two days figure out the path to get back without getting lost, as it's such a labrinth. The apartments were so great, that I'm doing one post on them and another on the art.

Alberto's Airbnb in San Polo

My first host was Alberto, (find his listing here) and even though I felt sure I could find the place on my own, he insisted on meeting me at Piazalle Roma. Thank God - it would have taken me forever to find it, and going over those damn bridges of stairs with a rolling suitcase is no picnic. It was four winding steep steps up to the flat (I'll be Eurotrashy and call them flats), but the view was worth it. The sounds of wailing children and scolding mothers (both of which seem to be in endless supply in all of Italy) would waft up to the windows. I keep hearing an odd noise, which sounded like the cry of a human baby mixed with a cat. I pinpointed it to an odd creature on the rooftop across from my window, and realized it was a pair of baby seagulls. They look a bit like fuzzy aliens. I took to chucking bits of bread and cheese over to the roof, and the mom would snatch them and feed the kids. Here's a video on my instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUr9dtYFKnT/?taken-by=kellywitmer

photo by Brian Hazell snatched from a google search ( I was not so lucky with my iPhone camera)

Alberto was kind enough to invite me to dinner, can you believe that? His girlfriend made lasagna, while I helped Alberto and his twelve year old daughter practice their English. A retired French photographer and a young archeologist joined us as well, and we went through a lot of wine. I was exhausted, though, and jet-lagged, and was dozing off in a sitting position. When Alberto took me back to the rental, he did the double cheek kiss thing, and I was so tired my timing was off and I think I sort of pecked him on or near the lips. I was mortified and apologized profusely, explaining how tired I was. Hopefully he understood, but I still feel horribly embarrassed.   

Giardini - away from the hustle and bustle, yet near the Biennale.

I thought the bathroom in this place was cool, until I got to the next stop....

ANYway, on to the next Airbnb. I got a beautiful FLAT in Giardini, where it was an easy walk to the main Biennale exhibitions. This garden district is on the outskirts of Venice, and it was a quiet break from the hustle of the city center. There weren't a lot of options in that area, so I splurged on a place that was way too big for me. The top photo on this post shows the big main room, which would have been wonderful for a dinner party. But alas, it was only me. But I thoroughly enjoyed sitting on the balcony with wine or coffee. Find this listing on Airbnb here.

over the roofs of Venice

Next stop, another splurge - I was on a roll. I got a place near the Rialto bridge and San Mark's square. Besides the location and killer terrace pictured above, the insane tile in the bathroom sold me. PLUS it was connected with Hotel Da Bruno (Bruno is my dog's name). It was easy to check in, I just went to the hotel and they had one of the nice guys working there take me to the apartment. You can find this listing here on Airbnb.

I didn't want to leave this bathroom. God, I love tile.

The kitchen tile was also great. I enjoyed some of The.Best.Cheese.InTheWorld. up on that roof deck. (I know, people who write Like.That. are worse than people who say "flat")

I'm really glad I rented these amazing places - I had a wonderful time and felt like I got to know Venice pretty well in just a week. Years ago I visited Italy and stayed in "pensiones", which are rooms rented out in private homes. Europeans were doing this long before Airbnb came around, but finding them was the difficult part. Some were listed in guidebooks, or often owners would loiter the train stations to offer housing to foreigners as they arrived. I was lured to several places that way, which was strange and scary but luckily worked out fine. Still, I'm certainly glad Airbnb has made the whole process easier for everyone.

my new friend, Scarlett

After buying Scarlett along with two other chickens 2nd hand off of craigslist several years ago, I think she's FINALLY warming up to me. I've managed to pick her up a few times this week, and she actually relaxed a bit and seemed to enjoy being petted. She used to have another black Australorp sidekick named Butterfly McChicken, after Butterfly McQueen who played Prissy in Gone With the Wind. They came with Butters, featured below. They were all pretty pecked up from an over-crowded situation, but managed to reinvent themselves in my coop. 

I think the reason is that she's excited over the fact that there are two young male chickens in the coop. I, on the other hand, am extremely ticked off that two of the 5 birds sold to me as hens have ended up cockerels, after I raised them in boxes in my dining room for two months.